Apricot season is short, usually running from the end of May to the end of July, sometimes as late as August in good years. With such a short season one must take full advantage of these golden fruits in the few weeks they are available. Unfortunately, this year hasn’t been a good year for apricots, judging by the ones we have gotten in Wisconsin. They aren’t overly sweet and when ripe most of the ones I have purchased have become mealy. All is not lost though. Sure they may not be perfect for eating out of hand this year but when grilled, slightly underripe apricots make a great topping for a variety of items from pork to ice cream. The simple recipe I offer today makes good use of this year’s so-so crop of apricots and makes an excellent ending to any dinner centered around the grill.

Vanilla Ice Cream Topped with Grilled Apricots and Honey
Serves 4

4 each Apricots (slightly firm and just a little underripe)
1-2 Tbsp. Vegetable Oil
4 Tbsp. Honey (your favorite kind)
1/4 cup Almonds
4 large scoops Vanilla Ice Cream

Earlier in the day toast the almonds in 350 degree oven until slightly browned. Cool and finely chop. While your main entree is grilling, cut the apricots in half and remove the pit. Once your entree is done, brush the grill clean. Brush the cut sides of the apricots with the oil and place on the hottest part of the grill. Grill for about 30 seconds turn over and grill 20-30 seconds more. It’s okay to get a little char on the cut flesh but try not to burn the skin side. Remove from the grill and set aside. After dinner, slice or roughly dice the apricots. Place ice cream in individual bowls and sprinkle with the apricots. Drizzle the honey over top of the ice cream and apricots and finally garnish with the toasted almonds.

It’s hard to comprehend the shear mass appeal of burgers in the US. Fast food chains have created empires with burgers as thier foundations, fine dining restaurants serve upscale “burgers” made of a variety of ingredients including Kobe beef, foie gras, and truffles. Some restaurants pride themselves on offering countless varieties of burgers, while other places vie for the title of “World’s Largest Burger.”

Part of the reason for this mass appeal is the burger’s adaptability. The burger lends itself to experimentation. From the meat used, to the seasonings mixed into the meat, to the toppings used to garnish them, the variations are endless. Unfortunately so are the number of crappy burgers and ill concieved toppings. Just because you can put it on a burger doesn’t mean you should. I also don’t believe in the adage that more is better, at least not in most cases. 3-4 well chosen toppings slipped into the bun, along with the burger is more than enough. More than that, and more often then not, you end up with all these conflicting flavors that mask the burger, which should be the star of the show. I am also not a big fan of mixing too many things into the burger meat. I have eaten too many burgers that taste and have the consistency of meatloaf. Sorry that is not a good burger. Typically, I leave all seasonings out of my burger meat and season only after the patty has been made. There are exceptions of course, one of those being when you combine 2 different meats to create your burger mix. The recipe below is one of those exceptions.

I am a huge burger fan, and although I prefer my burgers simple – topped with ketchup, mustard, onion, and pickle – most of the time, I do also like to experiment with numerous variations. That being the case, I imagine that burgers will make regular appearances here at “Wayward Chef” as I refine some of my favorite recipes.

Southwestern Chorizo Burgers

CORIANDER-CILANTRO MAYO
1/4 bunch Cilantro, stems removed
2 tsp. Coriander Seed, freshly ground
1 cup Mayo

Finely chop the cilantro and mix with the coriander and mayo. Make this a few hours ahead, or the night before to allow the flavors to develop.

PICKLED RED ONIONS
1/2 cup Cider Vinegar
1/2 cup Sugar
1 tsp. Salt
1 tsp. Pepper
1 1/2 each Red onion

Peel the onions and cut into a julienne 1/4 inch thick. Meanwhile combine the rest of the ingredients and bring to a boil. Add the onions, return to a boil and cook for 3 minutes. Remove from heat and allow onions to cool in the liquid. When cooled to room temperature store in the refrigerator. This is best made a day or 2 before

BURGERS AND ASSEMBLY
12 oz. Burger Meat 80/20 (the lean to fat ration, most stores now show this on the label
12 oz. Mexican Chorizo
2 each Tomatoes, cored and sliced
4 each Burger Buns
Cilantro-Coriander Mayo
Pickled Red Onions

Light charcoal and allow to burn down until covered with white ash, or pre heat gas grill, on high. Gently but thoroughly combine the burger meat and the chorizo. The key is to not over work the meats, but to gently combine the 2. Form into 4 patties.
Season one side lightly with salt and pepper. Don’t go too heavy as the chorizo is well spiced. Grill over high heat until medium well. This is more done than I usually like my burgers, but with the added chorizo the texture of these burgers cooked less than that is a little soft. Besides the high fat content of the chorizo will keep these burgers plenty moist.

When done allow the burger to drain briefly on paper towel. Place burger on bottom half of bun top with tomato slices, and some of the pickled red onion. Spread a thick portion of the coriander-cilantro mayo over the top half of the bun and place on top.

Last night Wanda and I headed up to Appleton, WI to attend the first “Grilling with Beer” cook-off presented by Wisconsin Distributors and held at the Radisson Paper Valley Hotel. It may have not been the most romantic of dates, but we were childless for the next few hours and what’s not to enjoy about beer and grilling? The weather was perfect, warm but not too hot, and the courtyard of the hotel was filled with the mingled scents of grilling meat and charcoal. The cook-off featured 10 chefs, from various styles of restaurants. Each chef was to prepare at least part of their dish on grills during the event and each chef was given a specific beer which they were to use in the creation of their dish, as well as pour during the event. The beers ranged from the mundane such as “Bud Light Lime” and “Landshark” to quirky such as Bud’s newest, “Wild Blue” a blueberry flavored beer, to sublime such as the 2 offerings from New Belgium, “Fat Tire” and “1554.” The food too, ran the gamut from uninspired and poorly executed, such as the boneless rib on a stick that was so tough I couldn’t chew through it try as I might, to well thought out and perfectly presented.

Of all the dishes I tried, three stood out among the rest and 1 tried really hard but just fell short. That dish was a flank steak served with basmati rice and an Indian inspired sauce. Since they were pairing with an IPA (Indian Pale Ale) I thought the Indian influence would be nice, but over cooked basmati and the choice of beef made the dish fail. How often do you see beef in Indian cuisine. They would have been better off with Lamb, which would have been great, or even chicken or pork-anything but beef. The three stand outs that night were the “Urban Shrimp with a 3-1-2 Punch,” the Grilled Pork Eye presented by “Big Tomatoes,” and the Grilled Elk with New Belgium’s “1554.” The shrimp were butterflied open, stuffed with a sliver of jalapeno, wrapped in bacon then grilled and glazed with a sweet BBQ sauce accented with Goose Island’s 312 Urban Wheat Beer. It’s only failing was the couscous salad it was served on. The Israeli couscous had been over cooked and had turned mushy, so on my second trip up to try a shrimp I just tossed the salad aside and ate the shrimp. “Big Tomatoes” Grilled pork was sauced with a Pomegranate BBQ Sauce accented with New Belgium’s “Fat Tire” and served with Grilled Corn and Poblano Ragout. The grilled elk, presented by Stone Cellar Brew Pub had been marinated in “1554″ and served with 2 sauces and marinated artichokes all of which had included “1554″ in some way or another.

We never did get to see who eventually won, though my guess is the shrimp dish, as our time was running out and our daughter was waiting for us to pick her up. We reluctantly grabbed one last nibble, cast our votes for the people’s choice and headed home.

One thing I’ve learned, living here in Wisconsin, is that this state is obsessed with Bratwursts. It’s a passion that seems on the verge of mania. If you think I exaggerate I invite any of you to drive through any number of towns on any given weekend and you will see plenty of evidence. On any weekend from May through October you would be hard pressed to find a town that doesn’t have at least one “Brat Fry” going on, and oftentimes larger towns will have 2, 3, 4 or more going on simultaneously. These are usually fundraisers for community or high school groups from the Lions, to Rotary, to Band Boosters. The obsession doesn’t stop there either. Ask most people what is on the menu for their summer celebration and I bet brats are included somewhere on that list. On nice weekends throughout the summer it almost becomes impossible to escape the sweet smell of brats sizzling over an outdoor grill. I can almost envision the entire state being blanketed by a giant cloud of smoke from all the grills frying up the thousands upon thousands of brats required to satiate this state’s collective hunger for these humble sausages.

Brat making in Wisconsin is a local affair. Sure there are a number of companies mass producing brats for nationwide distribution and you’ll find these same brands in any of the large grocery stores in any town in Wisconsin, but Wisconsin is still one area where local butchers still flourish and most of these butchers produce their own brats. These handcrafted sausages are flavorful and complex, easily rivaling any of the great fresh sausages of Europe. Brats make a great addition to a traditional Choucroute and bring a wonderful flavor to any recipe calling for sausage, but grilling is where the brat really shines. There are 3 basic philosophies to grilling brats: 1. is to gently grill the brats over medium heat. Cook them too quickly or at too high a heat and they burst open spilling their flavorful juices and fat all over the grill, 2. is to first poach the brats in a mixture of beer and onions until cooked all the way through and finishing them on the grill, and finally, 3. is to first grill the brats quickly then finish them in the beer and onion poaching liquid. I prefer the straight grilling method though if I am not serving them directly off of the grill I do place them in a warm bath of beer and onions to keep them warm.

Most local grocery stores sell “brat buns” which are basically a larger version of a hot dog bun. That’s one of things I hated about living in Chicago and trying to make Italian Sausage Sandwiches; you either had the choice of hot dog buns which were too small or sub rolls, which were too large and, oftentimes, too hard. These brat buns perfectly fit the larger sausage. As far as toppings are concerned, brats should be topped with mustard, onions and sauerkraut, in my opinion. Forget the ketchup, it has no place on top of a brat. Use it for your burger and fries. One word about sauerkraut; sauerkraut should always be rinsed before using whether you are serving it cold or hot. Most people miss this step and end up serving a product that is so overpowering it obscures most of the other flavors in the dish.

The Beer Braised Onion recipe I offer below is a great accompaniment to a brat. This recipe was created with brats in mind. It would also make a great topping for burgers or other grilled sandwiches though if not planning on serving it over brats you might want to consider substituting other flavors for the cinnamon and nutmeg.

Beer Braised Onions

2 Tbsp. Butter
1 large Onion, peeled and cut into a julienne
8 oz. Beer, preferably something a little sweet and malty
2 tsp. Sugar
½ tsp. Salt
½ tsp. Black Pepper
1 pinch Cinnamon
½ pinch Nutmeg

Melt the butter in s sauté pan and add the onions. Season with the salt and pepper and cook until wilted and just starting to brown. Add the beer and simmer uncovered until the liquid is reduced by half. Add the sugar, cinnamon and nutmeg and continue to cook until almost all the liquid has evaporated, stirring regularly to prevent the mixture from burning. Remove from the heat, taste and adjust seasoning to your liking.

Spring has truly arrived and summer is not far behind. “How do I know this,” you ask. Simple, I have finally moved my grills out from the protection of the garage and placed them up on the deck where I do all my spring, summer, and early fall grilling. Once the cold and snow sets in I move the grills to the front of the garage to give myself some protection during cold weather grilling. Yes, I am one of those. I grill out all year round, and have even made it a tradition of grilling our turkey for Thanksgiving. I’ve also been known to grill out in the middle of a snow storm if the craving for a grilled burger strikes. But these are stories for another time.

Yesterday, I was drinking a Black Cherry soda and I got to thinking about how it would taste as a base for a glaze on grilled chicken wings. It’s not as far-fetched as it sounds. Many veterans of BBQ competitions use coke in their BBQ sauces and I have also made and tasted outstanding BBQ sauces with root beer and Dr. Pepper in them, so why not black cherry soda. Most sodas have a nice play of sweet and tart, which makes them perfect for BBQ sauce, which also usually plays upon that same juxtaposition. Add in a little heat and you have the makings for a great glaze that can compliment chicken and pork and cut through the richness of many of the fattier cuts of meat. While I really liked this glaze, I found that most of the black cherry flavor was lost through the cooking process and couldn’t stand up to the more aggressive flavors in the glaze. That’s not to say that it wasn’t there, but it just wasn’t as forward as I had hoped. Try the glaze this way first then experiment, replacing the Black Cherry soda with Coke, Dr. Pepper, root beer, or ginger beer. Also try this glaze with one of the numerous lemon-lime sodas out there and adding more lemon juice to the recipe to give the chicken a nice citrus zing. Any way you try it, I think you will be happy with the results.

One word about grills: I own both a gas grill and a charcoal grill. I usually prefer the charcoal grill, but I like the convenience of the gas grill for quick meals. For this recipe I prefer the gas grill as I am better able to control the heat. A charcoal grill will work just fine, but keep a close eye on the wings so that they don’t burn.

3 cups Black Cherry Soda
1/4 cup Brown Sugar
1/4 cup Granulated Sugar
2 tsp. Soy Sauce
1 tsp. Worcestershire Sauce
1/4-1/2 tsp. Ground Chipotle Pepper (more if you like it hot)
2 tsp. Cider Vinegar
1/4 Lemon, juiced.
25-30 Chicken Wings
Salt
Pepper

Combine all the ingredients, except the chicken, salt, and pepper in a non-reactive pot. Bring to a boil and reduce until you have 1 1/2c. of glaze. Cool it down. This can be made a day or two ahead if needed.

Preheat the grill or get a good base of coals going. Season the chicken wings liberally with salt and pepper and grill over medium high heat until 1/2 way done, about 7 minutes. Turn regularly so as to not burn the skin. Move the wings to a cooler section of the grill and lightly brush the glaze onto one side of the wings. Cover the grill and allow to cook for about 3 minutes. Flip the wings and repeat the process. Continue this process until the wings are cooked through. Watch the heat! With all that sugar in the glaze the wings will want to burn. By the time the wings are done you should have applied the glaze at least 3-4 times on each side. This gradual building up of the glaze will leave you with beautifully lacquered wings that look as good as they taste. Remove them to a platter and serve with plenty of napkins and wet-wipes.